Durso Hills Winery at Victory Vineyards

Wine: Winery: Ambiance: Nov 26, 2012

Favorite Wine: 2006 Norton

I've visited a lot of wineries in Missouri's Ozark Highlands, and I think this may be among my favorite. Durso Hills came highly recommended from a southeast Missouri winery whose owner depends on the Durso Hills folks to tell him what he's doing wrong or right with his wine. Durso Hills is doing everything right, at least as far as the dry reds go. Offering three different vintages of Norton is always attractive, with each one totally distinct from the other: 05- brambly and lightly oaked, 06- heavier on the oak and smooth finish, and 09 Van Matre- vibrant and full of life. His Traminette is floral and bright, perfect for a fish dinner, and his other dry offerings are exemplary examples of the grape. This may be my favorite Ozark Highlands winery.

Wine: Winery: Ambiance: Oct 14, 2010

Favorite Wine: Chardonel

Norton Wine Review: Isn’t it strange how on vineyard tours, literally, the last stop is the one that blows you over? And this was almost not the case while trying to find Durso Hills Vineyards in the teeny town of Marqand, MO. After reading a “For Sale” sign on the vineyard store property with closed doors, we slowly bemoaned the findings with an unhurried drive around the town’s square. When 180 degrees opposite the winery store front, a lady darted out, turning on an “Open” sign and placed a Durso Hills Vineyards placard on the sidewalk. Around we turned once more with sheepish grins. As we met Donna and Steve Lening our grins turned to smiles which eventually turned to giggles realizing that this tasting must have been providentially arranged since we found hosts that were a bit late from church who loves Norton wines as much as we do. To understand the misunderstanding, the winery literally had been sold, but was going to move down the street a bit (and being as small as Marquand is, a move down the street a bit can only mean feet, not much more) and the new owners wished to retain the Durso’s good name (owners, Ron and Kay Durso). So what you get today (late 2010) will be the last of the original Durso holdings though new vintages will still use the original 10 year old vine plantings and possibly grapes from other sites. Oh, what a line up of wines were generously presented to us in an unhurried manner. Right out of the gates we were amazed with Durso’s dry white 2008 Vivant wine. Vivant is a grape hybridized in Canada, but actually does best in more Southern climates. This was not only dry, but fruity with enough zing to pair well with stronger tasting white meats, as chicken. Our host thought the green apple overtones would be a bit strong for fish. They have an expectant top of the line 2009 Vivant coming up soon, but was not quite ready for bottling when we arrived (dern). Next was a knock down winner in their semi-sweet (but not too sweet) Chardonel which had a dash of Vivant blended in. Maybe one of the best Chardonel wines we’ve tasted in a long time. Again, it’s up to you how dry you like your Chardonel wine. Next we were in for a real tower tasting treat, four Norton wines! A 2003 Silver Medal winner, a 2004 Gold Medal winner, a 2005 two year barrel-aged oaked Norton, and another 2006 two year barreled age medal winner. Four completely different tastes. Steve preferred the 2003 oak chipped, young green , but not sour Norton vintage which was not going to change its character with age. The 2004 Estate Bottled Norton was noticeably softer. Then came my wife’s favorite, the real mellow two year oaked 2005 Norton, followed by my favorite, the 2006 Norton with an ever so slight tannin tartness and light peppery finish which I feel will mellow out correctly in just a few more years of bottle maturing. We left with ample examples of the 2004 and 2006 Norton wines. As if this were not enough, we were induced into trying their 2008 Durso Red 70% Norton 30% Chambourcin blend. Sweeter and maybe just perfect for Thai food. This will make for a nice gift to friends with sweeter tastes than ours. The days are counting down, so do yourself a favor and skip down to Marquand, MO to find the best of Missouri’s southeast offerings in Durso Hills Winery.